Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Europe '85, Part X, Au Revoir Paris


Sunday, September 22, 1985, Paris, 11am


I am sitting here on my balcony while the maid cleans my room. I did not go and take care of business matters yesterday. I decided to give my feet a rest and stay in the neighborhood. I wrote post cards finally and sat in the Jardin du Luxembourg while I ate lunch (French style).

I took a walk late in the afternoon to see Jean-François’ cousin.  J-F warned me that his cousin and his cousin’s partner were a little strange. The cousin was not there but his partner was. When I explained my frustration at not having much non-tourist interaction with anyone he pointed out some good places to go to meet real people. I sat and talked with him for over an hour. I have been invited to dinner tomorrow night but I think I will beg off. J-F was right, nice but a bit strange.

I must start planning my journey to Florence, Venice and Milan. I don’t know how much the train tickets will be or when they leave etc. Must do that tomorrow morning.

 

Sunday, September 22, 1985 Paris, 9:30pm


I took a walk today through the small streets surrounding the Sorbonne, working my way toward le Jardin des Plantes.  I had heard that it is very nice and not many tourists there. I figured that on a Sunday I would likely see mostly Parisians. I noticed that most stores were closed along the way. The Jardin des Plantes is essentially a botanical garden and the flowers there were quite beautiful. It was very crowded with local people. In fact the whole city seemed crowded with people. I am sure a beautifully sunny day in September brought people out just as they would at home.

Jardin des Plantes
Boats along the Seine
 The Jardin is close to the Seine so I decided to walk along the quays back up toward Notre Dame. The quays were also crowded. Families out walking together, people sitting and reading or watching each other, people out in their boats on the Seine, walking their dogs, knitting – all very leisurely activities. About half the people were families out together, the other half seemed to be friends of singles sitting or sunning themselves.

Monday, September 23, 1985, Paris, 5pm


I went and got the information I need for deciding what train to take. (Hopefully, Noel will show up at the appointed hour and I can discuss my plans with him.)

I finally caught up with Alexandre about 1:30p. He said he was going to do some wash and had to meet a friend (another Egyptian) to talk over a problem.  He invited me to go along. I said that I thought 3 would be a crowd. He said not to worry since they would be talking in Arabic. I said OK. We met Mustafa and while Alex went to put his wash in Mustafa and I talked mostly in French with a little English thrown in.We were at a café on the corner of a busy street in Montparnasse.  He told me that he has a friend in Pennsylvania and how difficult things are long distance. We talked about that for a while. Alex returned and then a woman named Dominique appeared. She was introduced to me as Mustafa’s girlfriend. I was beginning to get the picture.  Alex leaned over and said to me in English “She doesn’t know about the American.” I told him I figured as much. He wanted to make sure I didn’t spill the beans. 

Alex and Said sat there and discussed Said’s friend in Arabic, while Dominique and I chatted away in French. (I did pretty good too!) They told her they were discussing a work problem. Dominique, I learned, does not work or go to school. She has been here less than a year from a province in Normandy I think. I don’t know how she lives. Mustafa does work but I don’t know at what. I do recall his mentioning his “patron” a few times but does he mean a boss?

In some ways it was very nice to be included by these people, sitting in a café and three languages being spoken at the same time. I found it interesting to be talking with these non-Parisian Parisians. At about 3:30pm things started breaking up and I realized that it was time for me to get moving.  I spent the rest of the day wandering around Montparnasse working my way back to my own neighborhood. A short stop in a café for people watching seemed about right while I reflected on my afternoon.
Moi!


 

Tuesday, September 24, 1985, Paris, 1pm

Flying Buttresses at Notre Dame
Alexandre and I caught up again last night.  I had eaten dinner at a place near Notre Dame and gave him a call as promised. He invited me over.  When I arrived at his apartment he was busy cleaning up. It was messy but as I told him I was there to see him not his apartment. He hadn’t eaten and asked me to eat with him. Since I had already eaten I declined. There was a movie on TV that we watched which for me was a strange experience. I was only able to follow half of what was going on. The nice thing was that it was pleasant just to be somewhere other than in a hotel room by myself with nothing to do. He cooked and ate while I watched TV. We talked also.

Watching the news was interesting. The production part is nowhere near the quality of American TV news. It was more on the level of the Hagerstown TV station. The weather was exceptionally brief. I was surprised at how many American references there were; American responses to the Greenpeace scandal, the fall of the dollar, and Reagan talking about protectionism. We also listened to some music on a Paris radio station called the “Sound of America.”  They were playing a lot of gentle soul music which he said is his favorite. I told him I would make a tape of the same kind of stuff after I got home.
When it got late I left and headed back to my hotel. I was really pleased to have made a friend and had the experience of visiting a local even if he is not a native Frenchman. 

The weather is still perfect – no rain at all and temperatures of 70-75 every day. What luck!

Tuesday, September 24, 1985, Paris, 7:30pm


About my meeting with Noel…. I realized that after I had talked with him that he had his dates confused. He told me he has registration on Wed the 26th except that I discovered that Wed is the 25th. I went to the Place de la Sorbonne today at 11am just in case his days were right and his dates wrong. He didn’t show up and I didn’t worry about it. I decided I would go up again tomorrow at 11am.

At about 6:15pm I was sitting at the corner café sipping on some Pastis when who should appear but Noel. He also realized that he had his dates confused. He was here at 11am but didn’t think I would be. He’s having dinner now with 2 friends and will meet me here at 10pm.

Wednesday, September 25, 1985, Paris, 9:10am


I had the most delightful evening last night! I went out to get some dinner having decided to have a good restaurant meal. As I was perusing a menu, this attractive woman came along and asked me if I spoke Spanish or English. I told her I spoke English and she pointed to “poissons” on the menu and asked if this “poissons” was fish. One thing led to another and we decided to have dinner together. Her name is Gregoria Marrero, she is from Puerto Rico and she is passing through Paris on her way to Berlin to run in the Berlin marathon. She is 38 years old and reminds me of Kathie. She is quite petite at 5”1” and weighs about 98 lbs. We had the most wonderful dinner! We talked non-stop about all kinds of things. I thoroughly enjoyed myself and wished I could have spent more time with her. However, I was supposed to meet Noel at 10pm.

I was late returning here to the Sorbonne but he came along about 2 minutes after I did. We had drinks with friends of his (all French). By then I was tired and had trouble following the conversation. Still it was nice to be included even if I was a 5th wheel.  I dropped into bed pooped.

Wednesday, September 25, 1985, Jardin du Luxembourg, Paris, 1:30pm


On this my last day in Paris, I find myself in a pensive and reflective mood. I am also sad. I am sitting here in a quiet corner of this lovely garden under a stand of chestnut trees, the peacefulness interrupted only by the occasional falling chestnut or a passing car or truck in the street nearby. The sun peeks at me through the leaves of the chestnuts. Two lovers are seated off to my left caught up in the pleasure of each other’s company. A man studies to my right occasionally glancing my way when a chestnut falls.

I am very much at peace here, but my sense of sadness is nearly overwhelming. I don’t want to leave here. I came to Paris as a tourist and discovered so much more. I think I shall always carry some of this enchanting city around with me in my heart. This is such a perfect place to spend my last few hours in Paris. I will probably walk around for a while before heading to the train station. I may take the time on the train to record some of the miscellaneous impression I have of this special place.

Thursday, September 26th , 1985 Lausanne, Switzerland, 12:25am


I am sitting here in the train station waiting for my train to Florence. I am glad that I arranged to get there this way. The TGV (Train à Grand Vitesse) was an interesting experience. [Ticket from Paris to Florence - 574FF or about $70] The TGV travels along about 160 mph and its cars are very much like being in a plane only nicer. The ticket agent thought I was a little crazy to take the TGV at 6pm to arrive in Lausanne at 10pm so I could catch up with another train at 12:45am that left Paris at 6pm for Florence! It probably is crazy but I wanted to try a high speed train and it gave me the chance to get out and walk around Lausanne for a while. I thought I could get some dinner but fool me – Lausanne isn’t very big and all I could get after 10pm was a fruit tart and some iced tea.

My train will be here shortly. I am traveling “en couchette” which will also be a new experience. I really should reflect back on Paris now but I am not in the mood. I’d better smoke my cigarettes now since I am booked into a non-smoking couchette.

Friday, April 27, 2012

Europe '85, Part IX

 

Thursday, September 19, 1985, 6:45pm 


My feet are on fire!  I went to Versailles this afternoon, after eating lunch across the street in the Jardin.  I took the RER which is sort of the express subway/train that continues out to the suburbs.  Versailles is about 15 to 20 miles out of the city.  My roundtrip ticket was about a $1.00!!  I did not go inside, though maybe I should have.  I walked around the great expanse of formal gardens and little woods.
The view of the gardens behind the palace
Versailles Gardens
Rear of the palace


At the far end of the gardens, I was taking a little rest by a fountain and ran into this guy who started chatting me up.  He turned out to be a very nice!  It was great to have a conversation with someone.  Up until now all my interactions have been business related - concierge, shopkeepers, ticket persons, waiters etc.  They don’t have the time or inclination for conversation or even speaking slowly enough for me to understand.
Noel Kintonouza is from Benin who will be studying for degrees in French and English at the University of Grenoble.  His birthday is on Christmas, hence the name Noel.  We had a wonderful conversation mostly in French, covering many topics mostly ourselves.  His father is catholic but also managed to have four wives. Of his father’s many children Noel is the only one to get an education. (Talk about religion adapting to the local culture!) He is single hopes to work in Gabon or the Ivory Coast for five or six years then return to Benin to be a teacher.  He hopes to be able to save more money because Gabon and Ivory Coast pay 6 to 7 times what he could make teaching in Benin.

Looking back toward the palace
Fountain


Another fountain
We talked about visiting each other and exchanged addresses.  He is staying with friends out in the suburbs, and has to travel to Normandy to see his French family.  He’ll be in Paris next Monday or Tuesday to take the TGV to Grenoble.  It was really nice to have a real conversation!  [2012 Note:  Noel and I did keep in touch for a few years after this trip. The last I had heard from him he had gotten married while in Grenoble, then divorced. His last letter told me he was teaching English in Scotland. We have since lost touch.]
PS.  The weather remains gorgeous – sunny and pleasant!  What luck!

Saturday, September 21, 1985, 10:30 am


I didn't write in here yesterday because I was on the move all day.  I didn't get back here until 10:00 PM and I was tired and depressed.

I left here fairly early and bought bread, cheese, and water for my lunch.  I walked down to the Ile de la Cité for tours of Notre Dame and la Conciergerie and then walked over to
La Conciergerie
 the Pompidou center.  The center is for modern art.  I went in and found the art boring, but the building is interesting from the outside.  From the Pompidou I walked through a neighboring area called the Marais.  I was going to take the metro to Sacre Coeur, but ended up walking instead.  It's a long walk!  

Sacre Coeur
 Sacre Coeur is more interesting from the outside than inside.  The area known as Montemartre is a high hill overlooking much of the city.  The artistic element in Paris is there also.  I saw some delightful paintings there, but the prices of $300 to $500 were beyond my pocket book.  I did buy a dumb little marionette and finally had my Ricard Pastis  at a café while eating the cheese and grapes I had left from lunch.  Mary Belle told me that view of the city at night was very worthwhile from here.  As it turns out I didn't think so.  It was OK but not fantastic.

Art for tourists at Montmartre



The walk to the nearest metro stop was also an experience.  In an earlier entry I mentioned that I have not really seen evidence of a black underclass here.  Well I found them.  They appear to be African immigrants and are usually found at tourist sites selling automatic birds (wind them up and they fly), pocket books, and bracelets.  Their language sounds African in cadence and pronunciation but they really could be from anywhere. They look African also in color and shapes of faces. Apparently some live in the areas near Montmartre, but others live outside the city.  Going to the metro I was beginning to feel that I was in a neighborhood I should not be in at night.  I was relieved to reach the metro stop. It seemed that other tourists at that stop felt uncomfortable also. It wasn’t that most of the locals were black, but it was in the way they carried themselves, their manner of dress, and the looks they gave us tourists, that made me feel uncomfortable. I have walked the streets of DC late at night enough to have a sense when things just don’t feel right. I was glad to be back in “Yuppie land” here in the Latin Quarter. (Apparently in France it is not blacks that suffer the most from discrimination, but the Arabs. I suspect this has much to do with French history and their involvement with Algeria.)

Today will be some business and maybe some shopping. I need to go and check on train schedules to Florence. I also need to change some money. I think I will also check out a department store.  I have seen some nice things here, and would like to buy some nice gifts but Paris isn’t cheap! At the department store I could charge my purchases.
I really need to write some post cards. I was too pooped last. I went right to bed.